Have you ever imagined what the end result would be if you blended French gourmet cuisine with Caribbean flavours, added a generous pinch of tropical air, and a dash of exotic plants? There is no need to wonder any longer as it is the reality of Guadeloupe.

HomeMadePunches_Guadeloupe
Claire makes and sells some of the best punches at the market in Saint-Anne, Guadeloupe. (Photo Credit: Jana Teneva)

The archipelago of Guadeloupe (the French Caribbean) consists of five different islands: Basse-Terre, Grande-Terre, Marie-Galante, Les Saintes, and La Désirade. To give you a taste we are going to take you on an island hopping tour so we can enjoy together the extremely colourful and luscious local specialties.

The main island is often referred to as “the butterfly island” and actually represents two islands, Basse-Terre and Grande-Terre, connected with a bridge. While most of the tourists are sunbathing on the gorgeous white sand beaches in Sainte-Anne on Grande-Terre, we will start our journey on a spice tour in Basse-Terre.

CacaoPods_MaisonDuCacao_Guadeloupe
Cacao pods hanging on a tree in Maison du Cacao, Pointe-Noire, Guadeloupe. (Photo Credit: Jana Teneva)

On our first stop let’s walk between cacao trees, under hanging cacao pods, and hear more about the cacao history of the island. The small and cosy Maison du Cacao, an open air garden museum in Pointe-Noire, is a real island gem (at least when one forgets about the mosquitoes, so please bring your repellent spray).

Coffee and cacao were introduced to Guadeloupe between the 17th and 18th centuries, and at that time their production overtook that of tobacco and indigo. However, cacao’s large-scale cultivation stopped when sugarcane fields took over the island.

Sightseeing can make you hungry so let’s see what the local cuisine has to offer. One of the first exotic and unknown dishes you will encounter when stopping for a quick bite or having a meal in a restaurant is a famous starter called accras de morue. These cod-fritter balls with chilies can be of any size, however, watch out – they are addictive (and just a tiny bit heavy if you have more than ten)! Accras de morue match perfectly with a local drink, le rhum agricole.

Accras_Guadeloupe
Warm accras du morue (cod-fritter-balls) are served with a fresh lime slice. They are best eaten hot and with a glass of ti punch (a strong cocktail of local rum, brown sugar, and lime). (Photo Credit: Jana Teneva)

Your choice of main dishes is going to look like a maze of the French-based Creole language. Fresh seafood platters with local root veggies and spices result in names like marlin/thazard au lait de coco (fish in coconut milk), colombo de poulet (chicken in a Colombo spice mix), and fricassée de chatrou (octopus stewed in tomatoes).

Back on the road, there is more to discover. You can climb the active volcano La Souffriere (1467 metres), go diving with turtles, or simply stroll on the beach.

Last but not least, in the Jardin d’épices next to the village of Bananier, the owner will guide you through the amazing world of exotic spices such as vanilla beans, nutmeg apples, and cardamom. With some of the non-edible but beautiful grains and beans he creates striking necklaces and bracelets which local men and women love to wear. From here we are just a few kilometres away from Trois-Rivieres, where the ferry goes to Les Saintes.

FreshNutmegs_JardinDepices
Fresh nutmegs drying in the sun at Jardin d’épices. (Photo Credit: Jana Teneva)

We’ll leave Guadeloupe and continue our journey there in the second instalment of Island Hopping!

Until then acquaint yourself with the Creole language using this little crash course we have prepared for you. With these basics you will be able to enjoy the local cuisine.

English
I
you
he
How are you?
It’s ok.
today
tomorrow
to have
drink
eat
dance
sleep
dear, honey
sometimes
No problems
Who is there?
What is that?
Tanta-Emma-Laden
mosquito
small mosquito
crab
octopus
sea urchin
crayfish
Creole
mwen
ou
i
ka’w fè?
sa ka maché
jòdi la, jòdi jou
dèmen
ti ni
bwè
manjé
zouké
dòmi
doudou
tanzantan
Pani problem
Ka ki là?
Ka sa yé?
lolo
maringouin
yen-yen
tourlourou
chatrou
chadron
oussous
French
je
tu
il
Comment ca va?
Ça va
aujourd’hui
demain
avoir
boir
manger
dancer
dormir
chéri(e)
de temps en temps
Pas de problème
Qui est là ?
Qu’est-ce que c’est ?
petite epicerie
moustique
petit moustique
crabe
poulpe
oursin
ecrevisse

 

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About Jana Teneva

Jana is a real fruit-junkie (watermelon being her favourite) and a big (goat-)cheese-lover. She speaks six languages next to her mother tongue Bulgarian and is in love with gourmet discoveries while travelling, diving and sunshine-catching.

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2 Responses to "Island Hopping: Guadeloupe by Car"

  1. Pingback: Island Hopping: Les Saintes - the Pearls of Guadeloupe

  2. Pingback: Island Hopping: Marie-Galante - the Island of Sugarcane and Rum

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